In this sense, play is a kind of language. Most importantly, how can we tell the difference? First, we need to determine whether both dogs are enjoying themselves and want to continue playing. Look at their postures and facial expressions. Watch for play signals, which can often be quite subtle — a quick dip or bounce rather than a full-blown play bow.
If she pulls against your grip in an attempt to interact with the other dog, release her. If she runs toward the other dog or directs a play signal in his direction, then she is saying that she wants to keep playing. An interaction like the one just described is straightforward and easy to read.
However, what about instances that may not be so clear-cut? We encourage you to discard any preconceived notions about what dog play should and should not look like — at least for the time being. Appropriate dog play fighting all depends on the individual dogs and the kind of relationship they have with one another.
Consider an example of a close canine friendship founded on unorthodox play. He would pin Sam with a neck bite every few seconds. No sooner would Sam stand up than Sage would neckbite him and flip him on his back again.
At first, we thought that Sage might be too rough for Sam, so we would intervene by holding one or both of them back. However, each time, Sam would try his hardest to get to Sage, despite the inevitable pinning. As Sam grew larger, eventually matching Sage in weight, Sage added body slams and mounting to their play.
With the exception of frequent rear-ups in which they adopted identical roles, facing one another and boxing with their front paws , Sage usually maintained the more assertive role neck biting, pinning, slamming and so forth. Yet, because Sam was always an enthusiastic partner, we let them continue to play together. With Sage and Sam, allowing play to continue was the right decision. Their early play interactions burgeoned into a lifelong friendship. Even today, the two middle-aged boys will sometimes play together for five hours at a stretch, stopping only occasionally for brief rests.
When they are finally done, they often lie together, completely relaxed, with their bodies touching. Their faces are loose and smiling, and they seem almost drunk in an endorphin-induced haze. This relationship shows that play does not necessarily have to be fair or balanced in order for two dogs to want to play with one another. Scientists thought that if one dog was too rough or forceful e. Until our research, this proposition was never empirically tested. Over a year period, we studied pair-wise play between adult dogs, between adult dogs and adolescents , and between puppy littermates.
Dogs do not need to take turns being assertive in order for play to take place. Safi, a female German Shepherd, and Osa, a male Golden Retriever mix, were best friends for many years. When they played, they snarled a lot, lips curled and teeth exposed. The snarls looked fierce, but they often preceded silly behaviors, like flopping on the ground. Then, as though on cue, Safi and Osa would put their scary faces back on, almost as if they were Halloween masks, and turn toward one another.
Their expressions were so exaggerated and obviously fake that they always made us laugh. Some dogs can even be trained to show a snarl on command in a context that is otherwise perfectly friendly. By just two weeks old, puppies are typically happily wrestling with their litter mates. While it might just look like fur balls having fun, this early play is critical to a puppy's social development.
Dogs playing together from such a young age teaches them communication and self-control. After all, if you bite one of your litter mates too hard he won't play with you anymore. As puppies age and grow, they don't lose their playful spirit. Give your dog the opportunity to make four-legged friends, but be vigilant. It's up to you to supervise and make sure your pup is enjoying good-natured play and isn't getting too aggressive with other dogs.
When does a line get crossed between play fighting and a dog actually exhibiting aggressive behavior? Signs of dog aggression include raised hackles, stiffness, snapping, or lunging. If either dog shows aggression, separate them immediately.
But be careful: Never get between two fighting dogs. Dogs can also become territorial, whether it's toward a place, food, a toy or a person. If you notice one of your dogs becoming territorial over something any time another dog comes around it, it is best to separate them before aggressive behaviors begin. Then, work with an obedience trainer to try and get to the bottom of this behavior and train it out of him.
This can often happen when introducing a new dog into the house with an older one. The older one is not used to having to share his toys or your love, so it might take a little extra training on your end to get him used to the idea of sharing his home.
If you have a dog that is aggressive, it simply might be best for you to avoid situations that may cause your dog to fight. But if you have had a dog that has shown signs of aggression in the past, you should be on alert for his whole life. A relapse can occur at any point. Consult your veterinarian if this behavior is regular. You might also need to consult a behavior trainer that can train your dog the right and wrong ways to act if you are struggling to train him to play nice.
The most important thing you can do to keep your dog from becoming fearful or aggressive toward other dogs is to start socialization early.
By regularly meeting and interacting with other dogs, you may lessen the chance that he'll react negatively to other dogs as he ages.
Get started by taking an obedience class with your dog, which will give him regular interaction with other puppies. You can also meet new canine pals on walks, by setting up play dates with neighbors, or visiting a dog park. Make sure your dog is comfortable in these situations.
You might not be helping your dog become more comfortable around other animals if he's scared or is bullied by another dog. Keep interactions positive and don't push your dog into a situation that he's not comfortable. Sometimes dogs can play too much and get too riled up. When the roughhousing gets too intense, separate them so no one gets hurt. Giving them something to chew on can distract the dogs from each other. Also, consider separating them briefly. There are key body language indicators that can help you determine the difference between a rough play session and an actual fight.
Play bows, open mouthed grins, body slams, bouncing, exaggerated growling noises, signs of submissive behavior like exposed bellies and a repeated desire to return to playing are all examples of positive signs of healthy play. A generally relaxed demeanor and posture indicates that your dog is not feeling stressed or fearful around another dog and that the play they are engaging in is all just fun and games.
Signs of a potentially aggressive encounter include a stiff body with raised hackles, pinned ears, low warning growls, and a curled lip. If you approach a situation tentatively or fearfully, your dog may mimic that behavior.
If you have the opportunity to drop the leash and allow dogs to meet on their own terms, any aggressive behavior might be avoided altogether. If a dog fight does occur, DO NOT reach your hand or any body part between the fighting dogs, as you will most likely get accidentally bitten. When left alone, most dog fights start and end quickly. If you must interfere, try to make a loud noise to distract the dogs or do something shocking like spray them with a hose. Play is a fundamental part of development in puppies and adult dogs.
Play builds motor skills, promotes healthy social interactions, prepares your pup for the unexpected and strengthens the human canine bond. To help your dog have positive play experiences, let them meet new canine friends often and on neutral ground.
Be sure not to project your own emotions onto your dog.
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